I had the privilege of returning from a wonderful trip to India where the Mohamed bin Zayed Raptor Conservation Fund set out to train our in-country partners from the Corbett Foundation on aspects of Indian Vulture Monitoring. I was able to write a memoir of this trip and we hope that you get a sense of awe and inspiration by reading the post below.
As the wheels of my flight gently touched down on the runway of Jabalpur airport, a deep sense of familiarity enveloped me. It had been eight long years since I last walked the vibrant, chaotic streets of India, where each corner brims with life and every face tells a story of resilience and time. Langur monkeys played on the side of the roads, and I was greeted warmly by Mr. Sujit, my trusted driver and the first link back to my past adventures. Realizing that India was currently in the midst of its general elections, we embarked on our drive towards Tala in the state of Madhya Pradesh, delving deep into the heart of India’s rich landscapes. ‘Don’t be satisfied with stories, how things have gone with others. Unfold your own myth,’ Rumi once said, inspiring us to forge our own paths and rediscover places with fresh eyes and renewed spirits.”
Our journey took us through Shahpura, a village town pulsing with the rhythm of its weekly market. The air was vividly woven with the scents of mangoes, bananas, and spices—an abstract painting of colors, scents, and sounds that captured the essence of India’s vibrant culture. Here, amidst the honking of buses and calls of vendors, the cacophony of daily life resonated within me, tapping into a profound sense of nostalgia. This place, which I had come to know as a second home during my biannual visits over 16 years, had not faded in its intensity but seemed to have grown more fervent. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the familiar sight of about 15 Indian vultures perched on a Ficus tree caught my eye. Their presence struck a chord within me. “Did they miss me?” I wondered whimsically, the thought both ambitious and comforting. The vultures, like sentinels of the past, seemed to mark my return, bridging the gap between the years with their unwavering gaze.
On the roadside, Surjit and I paused for a cup of kadak chai, the strong milk tea infused with ginger that had become a ritual in my travels. Each sip of the steaming brew was more than just a pause for rest; it was a moment of reflection, a connection to the hundreds of cups of chai that had accompanied previous journeys and decisions. In that small, steaming cup was the essence of optimism—a bittersweet blend of past journeys and the anticipation of what lay ahead. I was about to meet a new team and make new connections. People that would hopefully be inspired by my work. The simple act of drinking chai by the roadside, watching life unfold as it always had, was a nostalgic reminder of the enduring rhythms of life and the personal milestones that often go unnoticed in the rush of daily existence. I felt like I was in a game of golf and had just hit a three-hundred-yard drive straight down the middle of the fairway. With an imaginary green in sight, this cup of chai was not just a drink but a ritual, oozing in the history of my visits here. It was a moment to reconnect with the land and its creatures, to muse on the passage of time, and to consider the future. As the ginger-infused flavors mingled on my tongue, so did my thoughts, weaving together intricate threads of past, present, and future into the fabric of my ongoing journey. In this familiar setting, under the watchful eyes of vultures, I found a piece of myself that had remained unchanged by time, a core of continuity that would carry me forward into the coming days.
This trip, however, was fueled by a purpose far greater than nostalgia. For over two decades, I’ve been part of a critical mission with The Peregrine Fund, and now the Mohamed bin Zayed Raptor Conservation Fund—dedicated to reversing the near-catastrophic decline of Asia’s critically endangered vulture populations. These majestic creatures, vital to our ecological balance, had suffered immensely from the widespread use of the toxic drug diclofenac. Our relentless efforts had seen it banned, but the journey of recovery was ongoing and fraught with challenges.
It was now dark as we wound our way towards Bandhavgarh National Park, the landscape unfolding before us like a familiar puzzle, seemingly untouched by time yet continuously evolving. This park, with its rugged cliffs and dense forests, had long been one of my primary fieldwork sites. Here, amidst the ancient boughs and stony outcrops, I had spent many days and nights dedicated to monitoring the vulture populations. Each visit was an intense session of mapping their nesting sites, documenting occupancy, and meticulously tracking their survival against the odds.
Amidst this routine, I thought of Dr. Patrick Benson—affectionately known as Chacha, which means ‘uncle’ in Hindi—who used to accompany me on these trips. He added a layer of depth and expertise that was invaluable. Chacha was a seasoned vulture biologist known for his extensive study of Cape vultures in South Africa. Under his guidance, I learned the intricacies of data collection and the rigorous methods required to ensure accuracy and reliability in our research. Together, we cataloged nearly a thousand photos of all of Central India’s vulture cliffs, with individually marked nest sites that contributed to a growing database of crucial information. These images were stories of survival, each nest site a home that offered insights into the lives of these crucial yet increasingly critically endangered scavengers.
At the Infinity Resorts in Tala, our base camp of sorts, I was introduced to my counterparts from The Corbett Foundation, our partners on the ground in India. This organization, lauded with numerous awards for its conservation efforts, was represented by an incredible cadre of individuals: Dr. Devesh, Vidhi, Dr. Tahir Ali, Dr. Gyan, and Mr. Jhalla. The depth of their knowledge and the enthusiasm with which they embraced our joint mission filled me with both awe and a profound sense of relief. The early mornings in Bandhavgarh National Park were like witnessing the earth itself breathe to life. Each day began with the first tentative rays of sunlight weaving through the mist, painting the world in gold and awakening the dense underbrush with dewy brilliance. Accompanied by my new team, our excursions into this lush wilderness were driven by a profound sense of urgency mingled with hope. Armed with the essentials—binoculars, cameras, and notepads—we were a band united in our quest to document and safeguard the lives entwined with this landscape.
The sight of a vulture circling high above, its wings spread wide against the backdrop of the blue Indian sky, was both a relief and a call to action. These birds, with their impressive wingspans and keen eyesight, are the custodians of health in our ecosystems, diligently cleaning up the dead and preventing the spread of disease. Witnessing their flight was a reminder of what was at stake—our planet’s delicate balance.
Our work was meticulous and demanding. Each vulture sighting was recorded, each nesting site was mapped with precision. These data points, while mere numbers to some, represented life; they were beacons of hope that conservation efforts were making a difference. The field days were long and tiring, but as we gathered around our campfire each evening, sharing stories and data, the fatigue gave way to a shared sense of purpose.
But this journey was not just about data and research. It was deeply personal. It was about reconnecting with the land that shaped my understanding of conservation, with the people who were as passionate about saving wildlife as I was. It was about the laughter shared over a simple meal of samosas and chai, the silence that filled the air as we watched the sunset over the rugged terrain, and the profound conversations about our role in this vast, interconnected world.
On my last day, amidst the tranquil yet buzzing activity of our camp, that the reality of my role transition truly took hold. After breakfast, as we gathered around piles of photographs—each one a frozen fragment of the rugged cliffs and the vultures that call them home—I felt a bittersweet tug at my heart. These images, meticulously cataloged and discussed, were more than just data; they were a visual testament to years of blood, sweat and tears. Handing over the reins of this study to such capable hands, I was struck by a mix of emotions. Pride, certainly, at what we had achieved and what I knew they would continue to build upon; nostalgia for the countless hours spent in the field; and a poignant stir of melancholy as I prepared to step back and let them carry this legacy forward.
Sorting through the photographs with the team, explaining nuances and sharing anecdotes of field challenges and triumphs, I realized that this was more than a transition of duties—it was the passing of a torch. The enthusiasm and eagerness of the team to absorb and build upon the groundwork laid down was immensely reassuring. As each photo was examined and each site discussed, I felt a profound connection to this land and its winged inhabitants, coupled with the comfort that the project was in the most capable of hands.
Their dedication reassured me that the mission to protect these magnificent vultures would continue with vigor and that my years of stewardship had been but the first chapter in a long and hopeful story of conservation. As I began to step back, allowing the new guardians of this study to take the lead, I did so with a heart full of hope, confident in their ability to forge ahead with the same passion and commitment that had been my guiding stars.
As I write from my desk in Abu Dhabi, the memories of India glow vividly in my mind. The Mohamed bin Zayed Raptor Conservation Fund is more than just an organization; it is a testament to what can be achieved when people across the globe unite for a common cause. Our commitment to conservation is unwavering, our mission clear—to ensure that these guardians of the sky thrive, not just for the sake of biodiversity but for the health of our planet.
The road ahead is long, and the challenges are many, but our commitment is stronger than ever. We stand at the forefront of conservation, equipped with knowledge, driven by passion, and supported by a global community dedicated to making a difference. This journey, one of many, is a chapter in a larger story—a story of survival, resilience, and hope.
To those who join us in this cause, your support is invaluable. Together, we are not just doing research and saving species; we are inspiring the next generation and preserving the very fabric of life on Earth. Let this story inspire you, let it remind you of the power of dedication, and let it be a call to action. For in the flight of a vulture lies the health of our world, and in our hands lies their future.